Newfoundland

Fawn and I are visiting the island of Newfoundland this week. For those of you who are not familiar with Newfoundland, like I was not before about a month ago, let me tell you a little bit about this very interesting place!

Newfoundland is part of the Canadian province of Newfoundland and Labrador, the most easterly province of Canada, and hence, the most easterly point in all of North America. I suppose I didn’t realize just how far east we were going to be traveling, but if you look on a map, we have actually traveled about half-way to England!

Today we stood on that most easterly spot, located at Cape Spear. The angry waves of the North Atlantic Ocean made a thunderous noise as they crashed into the rocks below us. Leif Erickson, the Viking, sailed through those same waters. During World War 2, German U-boats lay in wait just over the horizon for Canadian and American ships filled with soldiers and supplies as they sailed from St. John’s on their way to Europe.

We are usually not the type of tourists who like to be with guided groups when we travel. We typically prefer to make our own plans and go at our own pace. However, when we heard about this trip, organized by Atlas Obscura, it truly sounded like something right up our alley. We’ll spend 9 days here, totally immersed in the culture of this region, learning about the food, history, culture, geography and the people of Newfoundland, from local folk. We’ll not only see the typical tourist sites, but we’ll also do things like: eat moose stew in a cemetery, go to a Victorian era printing shop, visit an active archeological dig, visit the largest crab plant in the world, eat a meal of “gathered food” prepared by our tour guide and her mother in their rustic barn, and hear local folk tales and live music. I can’t wait!

In our research leading up to the trip, we kept reading about how friendly and welcoming these “Newfies” are supposed to be. Being a native Texan, I couldn’t imagine we would be that impressed. However, the Newfies we have met in our first 24 hours here would certainly rival any good ol’ East Texan in their welcoming spirit and friendliness. I like this place.

Some of you will remember the time in September, 2001, when Newfies unexpectedly had an opportunity to show travelers from all over the world what it means to be hospitable. On 9-11, as Americans watched the twin towers of the World Trade Center burn and eventually crumble, the skies over the North Atlantic were filled with airplanes, as they are everyday. Newfoundland lies directly under the most commonly used flight path that airlines use between the northeastern U.S. and Europe. While America was in a state of shock, still trying to figure out who was attacking us and if more was coming, one of the first things our government did was to immediately close down our airspace and order all airplanes to the ground, including those about to enter our airspace from overseas.

Under “Operation Yellow Ribbon” the Canadian government, the Province of Newfoundland and Labrador, and the city of Gander unexpectedly found themselves hosts to 38 airliners carrying over 6,600 diverted travelers from all over the world. In his book, “The Day the World Came to Town”, author Jim Devede tells amazing stories of how Newfies showed the world that unconditional friendship, love and generosity could overpower the darkness that terrorism and hatred brought on that ugly day.

Our group of 12 fellow travelers gathers here in St. John’s today. We’ll meet up later tonight for dinner and introductions (this seems sort of like a 9 day blind date!). And tomorrow our journey around the Avalon Peninsula of Newfoundland begins in earnest.

Stay tuned!