Newfies

Saturday and Sunday we explored the southeastern coast of Newfoundland, around the Renews and Fermeuse area. This area is extremely rich in culture and history, and the people who live here will proudly and eagerly share it with visitors. I’d like to introduce you to three very interesting people we met this weekend.

This is our friend John Chidley. John is 64, and has lived in this area all of his life. The Chidley family has been here for generations, and John’s relatives are spread out all over the peninsula.

John Chidley

John is another strong supporter and advocate for the preservation of Newfoundland’s culture and history. His stories were fascinating and numerous…more than I could repeat here. John and Rita, his wife, own a small shop in Renews where a few local artisans display their unique crafts. On both days with us, John, Rita and his sister Beth prepared incredible lunches for us prior to our afternoon expeditions. Moose stew is pretty delicious!

For many years, John’s father operated the Renews lighthouse. The actual lighthouse that was once his home has since been torn down, but he took us to the site, high up on a rocky cliff above the sea.

Operating the lighthouse was a family affair, and the family all lived together in a primitive home built under the lighthouse. The lighthouse was a long way from the nearest store, and when the weather was bad they would send the family dog, with a note tied to his collar, to the store for supplies. John told us how his mother would routinely climb up and down a 64-rung rope ladder that hung from the top of the cliff down to the sea below, often with a child in her arms.

At the top of the cliff where a rope ladder hung to give access to boats in the sea below

The sea below the lighthouse site, where the rope ladder hung

John also took us to the site of his parent’s graves. At the gravesite hangs a bronze plaque that was designed by Gerald Squires, a good friend of John’s and prominent local artist, now deceased. The plaque depicts his mom on the rope ladder, the lighthouse, and other scenes from their lives, within a cross.

John’s parent’s gravesite

Sunday morning we spent some time with another very interesting gentleman, Loyola Hearn, who is not only a well-known local historian, writer and poet, but also served his country as a member of the Canadian Parliament, the Minister of Fisheries, and later served as Canada’s Ambassador to Ireland.

Dave and Felicity with Loyola Hearn

Loyola met us at the local museum, which was actually the old Catholic school. Among the exhibits was a display comemorating the Battle of Beaumont-Hamel in France, a major battle during World War I, where the Newfoundland Regiment was decimated by German troops. Of the 800 or so Newfoundland troops in the battle, more than 700 were killed. Mr. Hearne recited for us a very stirring poem he had written in 2016 while visiting the battlefield in France, called “Only One Tree”. The loss was devastating for the communities of Newfoundland, an independent nation at the time. It’s definitely worth your while to read it. Click here

Another interesting character we’ve met is Sharon, the owner of Belle Maison Dine & Dream (not Bed & Breakfast!). Sharon and her husband Alvin run an unbelievably clean and comfortable place near Port Kirwan, where we were based for three nights. Her only rule is that you are sitting at the dinner table at 7:00 p.m. for her house-prepared gourmet dinner, typically a local specialty of the region. Her mother Clara Belle, was an award-winning button accordion player. For two of the three nights we were there, live music from local artists was on the menu. it was pretty special when Judith sang with Sharon at our Sunday night dinner!

The trip continues…. Stay tuned!